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Toasting the Harvest

Part of the series “From the Vine” By Sarah Lyons

The possibilities for drink are endless as autumn bridges the seasonal gap between the blistering heat to the biting cold. A crisp glass of sparkling wine or a Gin Collins as the sun crests in the sky. A warming scotch or a Manhattan as you put your feet up after a long day. Or, perhaps cognac before bed. There is nothing though, like the perfect wine to accompany the deliciously simple foods of the harvest.

From the ripe tomatoes and peppers, to the rich and earthy root vegetables, it’s no wonder that Chefs are inspired and excited to fill our bellies. Chef Joshna Maharaj is one of those chefs. With her palate of warm and rich spices she always inspires as her recipes highlight the natural beauty of the foods.

The best pairings are always those that are as balanced as the food they accompany and I always look for those that are rich in flavour yet still respect the subtleties of the dishes.

White

For fall whites, I tend to lean toward those that have a fullness of fruit and a creamy mouth feel.

Chardonnay & White Burgundy

A subtly oaked Chardonnay or white Burgundy, with it’s buttery caramel notes is the ideal accompaniment to root vegetables and is a perfect match to Chef Joshna’s thyme scented parmesan popcorn. Readily available and ever popular these wines can be found in every price point and from appellations around the world. From the hot climate, full bodied, fruit forward versions to the elegant acidity of the cooler climate chardonnays, you are sure to find one that complements whatever pleases your palate.

Chenin Blanc

A lesser known, but no less exciting option is Chenin Blanc. Predominantly the most elegant examples can be found from the Vouvray appellation in France. These off-dry and semi-sweet wines sing of peach and apricot and have a creamy rich mouth feel which are perfect for foods glazed with cinnamon, brown sugar, maple or honey. More and more you can find these wines produced in regions around the world from Ontario to South Africa.

Gewürztraminer

Topping my list of the perfect fall whites is gewürztraminer. As much fun to drink as it is to say. This fruity, spicy wine is perfect with roasted meats and vegetables. Even the color of a ripe grape mimics a fall sunset. The best quality Gewürztraminers have a balanced acidity that can stand alongside the richest of fall foods. The full fruit and spice would be an ideal match to Chef Joshna’s roasted masala cauliflower. Easily found and often overshadowed by the almighty Chardonnay, this wine is best from cooler growing climates such as Ontario, Alsace and northern Italy, but also finds good representation from Oregon and New Zealand. Even better, this wine has a ‘late-harvest’ counterpart which easily pairs with dishes both savoury and sweet.

Red

The reds, of course, are a natural fit for the warm, stick-to-your-insides foods of fall. So much so, it is hard to suggest only a few. My first recommendation is find your favorite and enjoy it often, but if you have trouble narrowing it down here are a couple of my first choices.

Pinot Noir

One of my favorites, and an easy choice is Pinot Noir. This sensitive varietal has so many incarnations depending on region and vintage. Be it a sophisticated French Burgundy, a fruity South American, or an elegant representation from New Zealand or Oregon, Pinot Noir always promises a balance of fruit and acidity, gentle tannins and a unique earthiness that perfectly complements any warm fall feast.

Hearty Standbys

The mid-range of body and fullness is always one of personal preference. With so many delicious options there is never any singular wine that I choose. Sometimes the perfect match is a rich Cabernet Franc such as Chinon, ripe with stewed tomatoes and dark berries with a rusticity perfect with crusty bread and cheese or a hearty soup. Other times I look to Spain for the medium bodied elegance of their Tempranillo and Garnacha blends. An ideal match with most foods and unsurpassed value you can’t ever go wrong. And for those nights when the cold and damp of winter creep in, a bold Merlot or Malbec is undeniably glorious with a meal of roasted vegetables and cured meats. These wines are always trusted to please a crowd around a lively table of family or friends.

Rich Blends

And finally, the ‘blends’. Popular in most wine growing regions, blends highlight and complement the strengths of each grape to balance robustness, acidity and fruitiness. Some beautiful blended options are: Meritage from Canada – generally a Cabernet-Merlot; a wine from Ribera del Duero blending Tempranilllo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; the ever popular Italian blends such as Amarones or Super Tuscans; or finally one of my personal favorites - Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with rusticity and earthiness, these wines will warm from head to toe.

Sweet Finishers

At the end of the meal don’t forget to enjoy a little sweetness – perhaps an Indian Summer Riesling or Recioto della Valpolicella. I always love to enjoy a Sherry – from the nutty dry to the very sweet caramel, you can find the right one to finish an evening.

A lovely wine always goes with a lovely meal but late autumn definitely inspires wines of richness and fruit. Find your favorites but don’t forget to try something new!