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A Taste of Cognac

Part of the series “From the Vine” By Sarah Lyons

Touted as one of the world’s finest brandies, Cognac is produced from an eau-de-vie that is distilled from wine produced exclusively in the Charentes region of France.

History of Cognac

The history of cognac is actually a happy accident. The Charente-Maritime region, located on the mid-west coast of France, was originally known for producing pale, light wines with a very low alcohol content. It was the Northern European nations who bought salt from Poitou who were the largest importers of this wine. As exports were expected to make these long journeys by ship, this delicate wine seldom made the trip in tact and was found to be unpalatable. It was the Dutch who initiated the idea of distilling this wine into an eau-de-vie – this stabilized the wine and also reduced the volume that was needed to transport. It was believed that by adding water to the distillate, one could turn it back into wine, or add their own flavoring to this clear liquor.

As years passed and various political disturbances began around the 17^th century, sales began to drop and the eau-de-vie was left sitting in these oak barrels. When the French finally got around to opening the barrels they found inside a golden liquor which had matured and developed in the cask. It was at this point that they realized that they had stumbled upon a technique of producing which would turn out to be the most famous brandy in history, named for the town where it was born.

Process

The process of making this world-famous brandy is one that earns its high status by the care and patience it requires. From growing, picking and pressing to distilling, aging and blending, each stage of production is highly regulated to ensure consistency in quality.

There are six districts that comprise the regulated region in which cognac may be produced. The most distinguished regions are Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne – named for their chalky soils reminiscent of the famous chalky soils of Champagne. Fanning out in a circle from these central regions, the cognacs become less refined as the soils change and one gets closer to the Atlantic.

In the vineyard, vines are planted with a three meter interspacing to ensure maximum sunlight. Though there are seven grape varietals permitted by AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) regulations, the lion’s share (90%) of the wine used is made up of only three: Ugni Blanc (locally called Saint Émillion), Folle Blanche and Colombard. Harvest happens only once a year around the beginning of October and due to sheer volume is generally done by machine. Traditional flat presses are used to extract the juice and the wine is fermented without added sugar to produce a blanc de blanc with about 8% alcohol.

Once the still wine is produced the distillation process begins. In Cognac, the eau-de-vie goes through two separate distillations. The first, done using the Charentais alembic, distills the wine to about 28% alcohol. The second is called the ‘bonne chauffe’ and draws any further impurities from the liquid. The water-clear alcohol is now at about 70%. Once the distillation is complete, the eau-de-vie is immediately transferred to new oak barrels to begin the aging process. Aging process is a minimum of two years but can be aged up to 50 years or more. Within the barrel the not-yet-cognac absorbs subtle aromatics and tannins from the oak and through evaporation (called the angel’s share) and oxidation the unique characteristics of cognac harmonize and develop.

Once aged, the blending process begins. This is a complicated art that Master Blenders spend a lifetime perfecting. In order for the great cuvées to maintain their consistency and high quality much pride is taken in the experience of the Blenders to combine the brandies of differing ages and qualities. Decades of barrels will be separated and distinguished from one another and the Master Blender will choose from these barrels which brandy makes it into the finished product. A great cognac sold to the consumer could be blended from several differing decades each necessary to the consistent final product.

Categories

To this day cognac is known worldwide for its exceptional quality and refined palate. Listed amongst some of the world’s most famous spirits, cognac enjoys acclaim from both the most discerning oenophiles to being listed as the drink of choice for some of North America’s most famous pop and hip hop stars.”

Though each Cognac house prides itself on producing the finest cuvée, not each year will be at the same quality level as the prior year. Most of the largest cognac houses produce several grades or classes of cognac.

• VS (Very Special) or 3 stars sees two years in the barrel.
• VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) sees at least four years in barrel.
• XO (Extra Old) must be in barrel a minimum of six years, but most are usually no younger than 10 years.
• Hors d’Age means literally ‘beyond age’ and is used to distinguish those cognacs which are on the level of XO, but this term is used to market a product of an even higher and older quality.

Cognac can be enjoyed in as many differing ways as can be blended in to each bottle. The most traditional way is to be served in a snifter glass at room temperature or slightly warm to allow for the graceful aromatics to ruminate. Many large cognac producers are now marketing their entry-level cognacs to be served with mixes or used in cocktails competing with some of the other famous brown-spirits of the world. I, myself, enjoyed a frozen XO served with a elegantly smooth terrine of foie gras at the Hennessy Castle in Cognac – it was a perfect match.

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Pineau des Charentes

Another happy accident in the world of cognac was the creation of the delightful aperitif – Pineau des Charentes. The story goes that a wine maker, after pressing his wine, poured it into what he took to be an empty barrel. Much to his dismay there was actually a portion of cognac still left in the bottom. Thinking his supply of wine ruined, legend has it that each day he kicked the barrel in frustration, essentially stirring and blending it. After a time, he ventured to try the liquid inside finding it absolutely delicious – light and fruity. And thus was born the famous Pineau des Charentes taken by most French chilled as an aperitif. Traditional Charentais also serve a delicious appetizer of a halved Cavaillon melon (also indigenous to Charentes) filled with chilled Pineau.

Santé!